Gunmetal Jewelry : Antique Concept in Modern Designer Jewelry Looks

Modern jewelry designers are incorporating gunmetal finishes in their work for deep shimmering effects and modern clean looks. (available at jwassoriginals.com). Gunmetal finishes are most often found today in chain and offers a wonderful alternative to highly polished Sterling Silver. When links are cut or flattened it has incredible refractive properties that shimmers in the light. Unlike Sterling Silver, gunmetal finishes will not tarnish and actually look better over time. Although it is something that has been incorporated readily into modern designer jewelry, it actually has a long history and can be seen in antique jewelry looks (http://your-antique-jewelry.com) .
When we think about antique jewelry, we usually associate Gold, Diamonds, and gemstones. In the early 1800’s some styles of jewelry was produced from cast-iron and given a black-lacquered finish. More specifically it appeared around 1804 in Berlin, Germany. This jewelry pre-dates Victorian Era jewelry and dates to the Napoleonic Wars (during the Georgian Period in England). This type of jewelry is called Berlin Iron and is quite scarce today. Styles that are found tend to be in the Neo-Classical form, cast cameos and the sort in ornate frames. A bit later the Gothic Revival influenced the jewelry design with intricate lacey designs. It is amazing to think that these pieces were actually cast in sand and then lacquered in black. With its intricate design, it is a wonder that any examples still survive today.
Another form of gunmetal type antique jewelry is called Silesian wire work and was produced in Eastern Europe around the same time period. In this process iron wire was wrapped and woven into bracelets, necklaces, brooches, and earrings. In addition, jewelry was adorned with Aluminum at the time…yes it was that rare! It was prized due to the fact that it did not tarnish like Silver and was lightweight and highly refractive. Examples show that it was actually riveted to gold. As mining practices improved it fell out of fashion and as a result pieces are very scarce today.
In my designer jewelry collection I use both modern gunmetal finishes, mostly in chain along with my couture collection that incorporates antique steel cut components that date to the Georgian and Victorian Periods. I love the way that they play off of more modern cuts of gemstones. They also give a very romantic feel to the jewelry line and look amazing by candlelight. I will be writing more specifically about antique steel later on, as it also has a long history.

(source Warman's Jewelry by Christie Romero, 1995)